The Ultimate AR Platform Resource
Posted by Tactical Machining Engineering Team on Nov 2nd 2025
The Ultimate AR Platform Resource: The Complete Engineering Guide
The Builder’s Bible: This is not a generic overview. This is a technical deep-dive into the physics, metallurgy, and mechanics of the AR-15, AR-10, and PCC platforms. Whether you are milling your first 80% lower or tuning the gas port on a suppressed MK18 clone, this guide covers the "Why" and "How" behind every component.
Master Table of Contents
- Phase 0: Build Roadmap & Orientation
- Phase I: Receiver Metallurgy & Finish
- Phase II: The 80% Lower Concept
- Phase III: The Armorer's Workbench
- Phase IV: Barrels & Muzzle Devices
- Phase V: Handguards & Optics
- Phase VI: Gas System & Buffer Tool
- Phase VII: The BCG & Lubrication
- Phase VIII: Buffer & Recoil Systems
- Phase IX: Lower Parts & Triggers
- Phase X: Assembly & Torque
- Phase XI: Troubleshooting & Zeroing
- The 60-Question Mega FAQ
Phase 0: 80% Lowers & Build Roadmap
If this is your first time building a firearm, you need to understand where the 80% Lower fits into the ecosystem. The lower receiver is the only part of the AR-15 that is regulated as a "firearm." Everything else—barrel, bolt, stock—are just unrestricted parts.
The 3 Paths to a Lower Receiver
- 1. The Complete Lower: Already assembled. Has a stock, trigger, and buffer. Requires FFL transfer.
- 2. The Stripped Lower (100%): A finished piece of metal. You must install the trigger and parts yourself. Requires FFL transfer.
- 3. The 80% Lower: An unfinished receiver blank. The fire control pocket is solid metal. It is not a firearm. You must machine the pocket yourself using a Jig. No FFL required.
Who is this guide for?
This guide acts as a roadmap for two types of builders:
- The Home Machinist: You purchased an 80% lower and need to understand the physics of the platform to build a safe, reliable rifle.
- The Custom Builder: You want to hand-select every pin and spring to create a rifle that outperforms factory standards.
Federal and State laws regarding 80% lowers change frequently. Always verify your local laws before purchasing or manufacturing. This guide is for educational engineering purposes only.
Phase I: The Receiver Foundation
The lower receiver is the structural anchor of the entire platform. While many assume all lowers are equal, the metallurgy and finishing process dictate the lifespan and corrosion resistance of your rifle.
1. Metallurgy: 7075-T6 vs 6061-T6
Not all aluminum is created equal. The "T6" refers to the heat treatment process (Solution Heat Treated and Artificially Aged), which gives the metal its hardness.
| Alloy | Tensile Strength | Characteristics | Best Application |
|---|---|---|---|
| 7075-T6 | 83,000 psi | Mil-Spec Standard. Zinc is the primary alloying element. Highest strength-to-weight ratio. High fatigue resistance. | Duty rifles, hard-use carbines, and lightweight builds. |
| 6061-T6 | 45,000 psi | Billet Standard. Magnesium and Silicon are primary elements. Excellent corrosion resistance. Easier to machine. | Custom billet receivers, show builds, and dedicated PCCs. |
2. Manufacturing Methods: Forged vs Billet
- Forged (The Gold Standard): Aluminum is hammered into shape under immense pressure. This compresses the grain structure to follow the contours of the part, offering maximum impact resistance.
- Billet (The Custom Choice): CNC machined from a solid block. The grain structure is linear. Modern billet receivers are over-engineered with thicker walls to compensate for grain structure, offering unique aesthetics.
3. Finishing: Protecting the Metal
If you are building on a raw 80% receiver, understanding protection is vital. Aluminum does not rust, but it oxidizes (turns chalky white).
Cerakote: A baked-on ceramic paint. Excellent for exterior custom colors and chemical resistance, but adds thickness. Mask your pin holes!
Phase II: The 80% Lower Concept
The "80% Lower" is a popular entry point for home builders who wish to understand the internal mechanics of their firearm intimately. It allows you to participate in the manufacturing process.
1. The Design Checklist
When selecting an 80% lower, look for these features to ensure compatibility:
- Broached Magwell: Ensure the magazine well is cut to Mil-Spec tolerances. Cheap lowers often have tight magwells that won't drop magazines freely.
- Rear Takedown Pocket: Some 80% lowers come with the rear pocket (where the upper receiver lug goes) already milled. This saves you a difficult machining step.
- Safety Selector Stops: Verify the markings/stops match your intended safety (90 degree vs 45 degree throw).
2. Jigs and Tooling: How it Works
To complete an 80% lower, builders utilize a Jig. A jig is a fixture that clamps the receiver in place and provides a template.
- Router Jig (Recommended): Uses a handheld woodworking router. The jig guides the router to remove material in layers. This produces the cleanest, factory-like finish.
- Drill Press Jig: Uses a drill press to bore vertical holes, then connects them. This requires more manual cleanup with files and produces a rougher internal finish.
Phase III: The Armorer's Workbench
You cannot build a precision rifle with a pair of pliers. Having the right tools prevents scratched receivers, broken parts, and frustration.
Level 1: The Essentials
- Armorer's Wrench: Essential for Castle Nut & Barrel Nut.
- Punch Set: Brass and Steel punches (1/16" to 5/16").
- Ball Peen Hammer: Or a brass/nylon soft mallet.
- Pivot Pin Tool: Saves your sanity from flying detents.
Level 2: The Pro Builder
- Reaction Rod / Vise Block: ESSENTIAL to prevent shearing the barrel index pin during torque. Never torque a barrel by clamping the lower receiver!
- Torque Wrench (ft-lbs): For barrel nuts (30-80 ft-lbs).
- Torque Driver (in-lbs): For gas blocks and scope rings.
- Aeroshell 33MS Grease: Prevents thread seizing.
Phase IV: Barrels & Muzzle Devices
The barrel is the heart of the rifle. Its profile, lining, and muzzle device determine accuracy, handling, and recoil impulse.
1. Twist Rate: Stabilizing the Projectile
| Twist Rate | Optimal Bullet Weight | Performance Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1:7 (Fast) | 69 gr - 80 gr | Best for heavy match/tracer rounds. Mil-Spec standard. |
| 1:8 (Balanced) | 62 gr - 77 gr | The best all-around choice for modern sporting rifles. |
| 1:9 (Slow) | 40 gr - 62 gr | Excellent stability for inexpensive 55 gr ball ammunition. |
2. Barrel Materials
- 4150 CMV: The Mil-Spec steel. Highly durable, handles heat well. Usually Parkerized or Nitrided.
- 416R Stainless: Softer steel designed for precision machining. More accurate, but shorter lifespan than 4150.
3. Muzzle Devices: The Triad
- Flash Hider (A2): Breaks up the gas expanding from the barrel to minimize visual signature. Standard for duty.
- Muzzle Brake: Redirects gas sideways/backwards to pull the rifle forward, cancelling recoil. Warning: Very loud for people standing next to you.
- Compensator: Vents gas upwards to push the barrel down, reducing muzzle rise during rapid fire.
Use a Crush Washer for brakes and flash hiders to time them correctly (ports facing up/sides).
NEVER use a crush washer for a Suppressor Mount. Crush washers compress unevenly, which can cause the suppressor to be misaligned, leading to a "baffle strike." Use Shims for suppressors.
Phase V: Handguards & Optics
1. Attachment Standards
- M-LOK: The USSOCOM standard. Slots allow T-nuts to lock in. Lightweight and smooth.
- Quad Rail (1913 Picatinny): The classic "cheese grater." Heavy, but allows instant mounting anywhere. Very rigid.
2. Optic Mounting Physics
Bridging the Gap: Never mount your optic rings so that they span across the receiver and the handguard. The handguard flexes under heat and pressure; the receiver does not. Bridging causes your zero to shift.
Phase VI: Gas System Physics
The number one reason for a home-built AR failing is the gas system. The AR-15 operates on "Direct Impingement"—gas is siphoned from the barrel to blow the bolt carrier back.
1. Dwell Time
Dwell time is the amount of time the bullet spends in the barrel after passing the gas port but before exiting the muzzle. This pressurized time is what cycles the bolt.
Too little dwell time (short barrel, long gas system) = Short Stroking.
Too much dwell time (long barrel, short gas system) = Harsh recoil and wear.
2. Gas Block Installation: Dimpling vs. Pinning
A gas block that shifts cuts off gas flow, turning your semi-auto into a single-shot rifle.
- Set Screw (Dimpled): Using a jig to drill a small divot in the barrel directly under the set screw. The screw locks into this divot. Highly recommended for home builders.
- Pinned (Bombproof): Drilling a taper pin through the side of the block and the barrel curve. This is the Mil-Spec requirement for duty rifles.
3. The Buffer Weight Balancing Act
Phase VII: The BCG & Lubrication
1. The Lubrication Map
AR-15s like to run "wet," but putting oil in the wrong place attracts carbon.
- Lube HEAVY (Wet): The 4 exterior rails of the Bolt Carrier (where it touches the receiver) and the Cam Pin.
- Lube LIGHT (Sheen): The Bolt Lugs and the Buffer Spring (to reduce noise).
- Run DRY: The Gas Key, The Gas Tube, and the Face of the Bolt. Oil here turns into carbon paste.
2. Coatings Comparison
| Coating | Lubricity | Durability | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Phosphate | Low | High | Mil-Spec. Holds oil well due to porous surface. |
| Nickel Boron | High | Medium | Very slick, easy to clean, but can tarnish. |
| Black Nitride | Medium | Very High | Surface hardening treatment. Best all-around value. |
Phase VIII: Buffer & Recoil Systems
1. Buffer Weights Explained
- Carbine (3.0 oz): Standard 3 steel weights. Use for 16" Mid-Length or weak ammo.
- H1 (3.8 oz): 1 Tungsten, 2 Steel. General Purpose. Good for 14.5" - 16" Carbine gas.
- H2 (4.6 oz): 2 Tungsten, 1 Steel. Best for MK18s (10.3") or Suppressed shooting. Delays unlocking.
- H3 (5.4 oz): 3 Tungsten. Used for short suppressed rifles or to tame violent actions.
2. PCC (9mm) Blowback Physics
PCCs do not use gas tubes. They rely on the sheer mass of the bolt to keep the chamber closed. The Golden Rule: Ensure your BCG + Buffer weight totals 22oz - 24oz. Anything lighter may result in "out of battery" detonations.
Phase IX: Lower Parts & Triggers
1. Trigger Geometry
- Single Stage: No "take-up." You apply pressure and the wall breaks instantly (like a glass rod). Preferred for fast, tactical shooting.
- Two-Stage: There is a light, smooth "take-up" phase before you hit a distinct wall. Applying slightly more pressure breaks the shot. Preferred for precision/distance.
2. Magazines: The Source of 90% of Failures
| Issue | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Bolt won't lock back | Weak follower spring or bad follower geometry. | Use Magpul Anti-Tilt followers. |
| Double Feeds | Bent feed lips releasing rounds too early. | Discard magazine immediately (Metal lips bend, Polymer lips crack). |
| 300BLK Issues | Side rib geometry of 5.56 mag presses on heavy 300BLK bullets. | Use dedicated 300BLK magazines to prevent binding. |
Phase X: Assembly & Torque
This section is your cheat sheet. Print this out. Building without torque specs is dangerous.
1. Critical Torque Specifications
| Component | Required Torque | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Barrel Nut | 30 - 80 ft-lbs | Align gas tube hole within this range. Do not exceed 80. |
| Castle Nut | 38 - 42 ft-lbs | Must be Staked after torque. |
| Gas Key Screws | 50 - 58 in-lbs | Grade 8 screws required. Must be Staked. |
| Flash Hider | 15 - 20 ft-lbs | Do not over-torque or you can stretch the barrel threads. |
2. What is "Staking"?
Staking is the process of using a center punch to displace metal from one part (like the receiver end plate) into the locking notches of another part (the castle nut). This creates a physical barrier that prevents the nut from backing off under vibration. It is a mandatory step for a reliable build.
Phase XI: Troubleshooting & Zeroing
1. The FTF/FTE Matrix
- Short Stroking (Bolt doesn't lock back): Under-gassed (misaligned block) or Buffer too heavy.
- Stovepiping (Case gets stuck in ejection port): Weak extractor spring or weak ejector.
- Failure to Feed: Magazine not seated, dirty feed ramps, or buffer spring too weak.
2. Zeroing: The 36 Yard vs 50 Yard Zero
Because the sight sits ~2.6" above the barrel, the bullet must arc up to meet your line of sight.
- 50/200 Zero: The most common. Bullet crosses line of sight at 50 yards and again at 200 yards. Very flat trajectory.
- 36 Yard Zero: Popularized by the USMC. Allows for a "Point Blank Zero" out to 300 yards with minimal hold-over.
The Pre-Fire Checklist
- Function Check: Ensure safety selector stops the trigger. Ensure trigger resets (audible click) while holding the trigger down and racking the bolt.
- Headspace Check: Use Go/No-Go gauges to verify chamber depth. (Critical for home-built uppers).
- Obstruction Check: Visually inspect the bore for grease or debris.
- Lubrication: Ensure the BCG is wet before the first round.
Expert FAQ (60 Questions)
Filter the topics below for quick answers from our TM Engineering Team.
A receiver blank that is not yet machined to the point of being a firearm. It requires no FFL to purchase.
Under federal law, yes, for personal use. You cannot build it with the intent to sell. Always check state laws.
Federal law does not require a serial number for home-built personal firearms, though it is recommended in case of theft. Some states (CA) do require it.
Router jigs are faster and produce cleaner results. Drill presses work but require more cleanup.
Not recommended. It is extremely difficult to maintain precision, and you risk ruining the lower.
Polymer is easiest, followed by 6061 Aluminum. 7075 Aluminum is the hardest but most durable.
Yes, but dimensions may change slightly. Cerakote or Aluma-Hyde is often easier for home builders.
A jig, a router (or drill press), end mills, drill bits, and cutting fluid.
For a 16" Mid-Length, typically 0.076 - 0.078 inches.
The time the bullet spends in the barrel after passing the gas port. Critical for cycling.
It delays unlocking, reduces recoil, and aids extraction in over-gassed rifles.
Usually under-gassing (gas block alignment) or too heavy of a buffer.
Between 3:00 and 4:00 o'clock.
Only for suppressed use or tuning competition rifles.
Yes, it allows for thermal expansion and alignment.
Heavier buffer (H2/H3) or adjustable gas block.
The bolt bouncing open slightly before firing. Caused by light buffers.
Dirty chamber or broken extractor claw.
Usually a bad magazine or weak extractor.
Yes, buffer tube length is independent of gas system length.
NO. 5.56 is higher pressure. Doing so can be dangerous.
Fast twist rate. Best for stabilizing heavy 62gr - 77gr bullets.
Hybrid chamber that shoots both 5.56 and .223 safely and accurately.
Hanson or Gunner profiles offer the best balance.
Reduces weight and aids cooling without losing much stiffness.
Surface hardened steel. Cheaper than chrome lined, more accurate.
15k-20k rounds for Chrome Moly Vanadium (CMV).
Yes, they improve feeding reliability.
Yes, identical lower and magazines.
No, it uses the standard 5.56 bolt face.
The standard chamber depth (.136"). Do not mix with Type 1.
1:9 or 1:8 is ideal.
No. They are different sizes.
7075 is Mil-Spec and stronger. 6061 is general purpose.
M-LOK is the modern standard. KeyMod is obsolete.
Does not touch the barrel, improving accuracy.
Latches on both sides. Great for optics.
Forged is stronger/lighter. Billet is for looks/custom fit.
No forward assist.
Only for drop-in cassette triggers.
Commercial is wider and slanted at back. Do not mix stocks.
Has a light take-up before the wall/break. Good for accuracy.
Spring and weight are one unit. Quiet and smooth.
NiB is slicker/silver. Nitride is harder/black.
Punching metal from end plate to nut to prevent loosening.
Highly recommended to verify headspace.
30-80 ft-lbs.
38-42 ft-lbs + Stake.
Yes! Prevents galling.
No.
High Pressure Test / Magnetic Particle Inspection (Quality Control).
16 inches (unless SBR/Pistol).
Federal Felony (Machine Gun).
No, unless OAL > 26".
Piston guns tilting the carrier, wearing the buffer tube.
Hider reduces flash. Brake reduces recoil (loud).
Baked-on ceramic paint.
Lightly grease it to stop noise.
Total mass needs to be 22oz+.
Better parts for the money and knowledge of your tool.
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